Friday, March 2, 2007
I was never a big fan of the enormously popular “Color Me _______”.
Whenever I see a formula-driven fashion theory, I tend to run the other way. My feeling is that we are not only unique, but unique on a daily basis.
Our complexion and hair quality seems to change everyday due to our biological ups and downs and, of course, the whimsy and wiles of weather. There are days you may seem paler, more sallow or somewhat ruddy or perhaps flakey and wrinkly, rather than dewy and more smooth-skinned.
There are very few absolutes about color. The only one I can think of applies to men. They look their best in a variety of blues. But men (ostensibly) don’t get to cheat and manipulate their complexion with make-up. That’s why women are not fated to restrict their palette as much as they think.
When I work with my private clients, I might have a particular palette that I favor for an individual, but I might advise applying a different color lipstick and blush to make yet a different color palette or single color work. If a woman learns the art of natural looking make-up, but distinguishing between tone, she’s ahead of the game (read "Bobbi Brown’s Beauty Evolution").
Also, consider that every color, including black, is at times more or less complimentary due to the fabrication of the garment. For example, a black leather jacket may look a bit harsh, but a black cashmere sweater may look great.
In “Forever Cool,” I suggest that certain colors might look “old” more than others. After all that’s what the book tries to flesh out - aging effects.
Severity or harshness is part of my barometer. That is why I single out jewel tones or '80s mauves and teals for their aging qualities.
Try bright or soft pastels if they are embodied in “preppy” oriented styles. They are always classically youthful. Otherwise, pastels are the "senior citizen” look’s palette of choice (reverting to childhood) for their wash-and-wear polyesters or cutesy sweats.
Likewise, primary colors, especially coordinated with black tend to look obvious, and, again, childish.
If you are a woman who has let her hair grow beautifully grey, you should know that many colors can work for you. It depends on your (daily) complexion. A rich charcoal can be amazing, especially coupled with silver accessories enhancing your skin.
Almost always, I like to work with a fine neutral palette for winter and with interesting secondary or “off-colors” such as diverse greens and different oranges, especially for summer.
Working with color is exciting and is a real art. Hone your skills by experimenting and you will be amazed by its effect.
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