There's nothing wee or precious about petite sirah, a red wine that has been compared, seriously, to John Wayne and whose big, bold profile is at odds with its diminutive name. Like the Duke, petite sirah (variously spelled "syrah") generates passionate feelings from those who delight in its rough and ready style.
"The best are tannic, dense, super chewy monsters with mouth-coating flavors of blueberries and white pepper. In short, they're manly-man wines," said Joe Kafka, owner of Kafka Wine Co. in Lakeview, Fla. "Let them open up and then serve with a steak or a cigar."
Like a good cigar or steak, quality petite sirah will cost you. There are relatively few low-priced "entry-level" examples of this varietal. Bogle and Concannon are two of the best known affordable brands.
Why is petite sirah so pricey? Scarcity.
Only 7,000 acres of petite sirah vines exist in the world, 6,000 of which are in California, said Jo Diaz, director of P.S. I Love You, a petite sirah industry advocacy group based in Windsor, Calif.
"It's so darn hard to get a hold of it," she said, noting that most petite sirah makers only produce 300 and 500 cases a year.
But more winemakers now are growing petite sirah. P.S. I Love You had 60 member growers and producers involved with petite sirah in 2001. Now, the group has 533 growers and producers.
"I'm finding it to be a real cult varietal," Diaz said. "People who like petite sirah are free-spirit people. These are not the cabernet sauvignon people. They're not looking for something elegant. They're looking for something bold. Petite sirah is the biggest of the baddest in bold flavor."
Kafka agrees that petite sirah generates fierce loyalty and steady sales.
"It's a wine for those in the know," he said.
And more should know it.
Tom Benezra of Sal's Beverage World stores said California petite sirah is a "somewhat rustic wine" that goes well with hearty beef and lamb dishes, even hamburgers.
And those in the know know petite sirah is not syrah, which is one reason the spelling of petite syrah is slowly being phased out among winemakers in favor of petite sirah. Although the wine's origins have been open to question, most experts believe the grape is a French-born cross between syrah and peloursin. This cross was originally named "durif" for its creator, Francois Durif, back in the 1880s, but it got called petite sirah upon arriving in California a few years later. Federal alcohol officials now consider the two names synonymous.
Chicago-area wine experts report spending much time with customers explaining how petite sirah is not syrah.
"It is generally less elegant and complex than syrah, but its sheer size and full flavor can make it very satisfying," Benezra said.
What to look for
Petite sirah is a big and bold wine. Tasting panelists embraced the force, giving a rare four corkscrew-rating to the 2004 Stags' Leap Winery. Three other petite sirahs scored solid three corkscrew-ratings and the remaining two earned two corkscrews, a good rating. What to serve with these wines? Tasters frequently mentioned grilled steak, beef stew, braised short ribs and all manner of lamb.
2004 Stags' Leap Winery: From Napa Valley, a superb wine with lots of rich, dark fruit pumped by considerable tannic muscle. Pleasant nose, look for earth and berry notes. 4 corkscrews. $39
2002 Sean Thackrey Sirius: This Mendocino red had a slight cedar aroma that did not hint at the flavor, which was big, with lots of spice, black pepper and a touch of mint on top of the Bing cherry flavor. 3 corkscrews. $75
2005 Girard: A big, fruity Napa wine with an earthy aroma and spicy aftertaste. Rich. 3 corkscrews. $26
2002 Robert Biale Vineyards Royal Punishers Appellation Series: Look for plum and black cherry aromas in this Napa red. There's plenty of fruit flavor built on a muscular, tannic core. 3 corkscrews. $43
2000 Chiarello Family Vineyards Roux Old Vine: From Napa Valley, this red had an herbal, earthy aroma that bordered on the funky. Flavor notes touched on prunes, blackberries and a hint of green pepper. 2 corkscrews. $60
2005 David Bruce: Lighter than the rest, this Central Coast red had a note of sweetness at the start with layers of citrus and tannins following through. 2 corkscrews. $23
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